Whats Popular More Stats

In a previous post I was musing on what makes certain posts more popular than others.  I looked at the stats that google provides to the blogger in more detail and found that my initial suspicion was correct.
The reason that the Iqyax^ and the Sea Otter post is popular is that it has pictures of cute sea otters.  "sea otter" is the search term that brings the most visitors to my blog. It beats the next nearest search term "frilled lizard" by about a factor of 20.  "Aleut paddle" as a search term in various combinations is about as popular as the frilled lizard.
Another interesting statistic is that traffic was down over the Easter weekend but picked right up again on Monday.  Im not sure of this, but I suspect that a lot of people do their internet time wasting at work, that is, people who sit at a computer monitor at work. If youre working a cash register, stocking merchandise, driving a car or truck, busing tables or mowing a lawn or shoveling snow or pounding nails or pouring cement, then you probably dont visit my blog when youre at work.

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The Utility More progress reveals new trouble spots

More fairing. This time, it has been a matter of fairing the overhanging edges of the side planking down to meet the chines.

For the most part, I have been doing this with a power sander and with a sanding block, along with occasional help from a hand plane. I also bought a “multi-tool” oscillating saw to trim the planking up forward, where accurate fitting along the mid-width of the chine is required.

A large portion of this work is done. However, as I look down the length of the chine to check for “fairness” of line, I’m seeing some new trouble spots. It appears I’ve got a couple of low spots in the chine, particularly on the port side... the dreaded “humps and hollows” mentioned in Boatbuilding With Plywood. 

Once I get some remaining areas fully sanded, I’ll be able to assess the problem more accurately. However, it’s already looking like I will have to add some more strips of wood to fill these areas. That means more fairing. (Yaaay!) Oh well, it will be for the best if so.

The dreaded "humps and hollows" are plainly visible along the port chine.

To a lesser degree, the same issues are visible along the starboard chine.

Fairing progress at the transom. I still need to sand away those Raptor staples.

Still need to encapsulate the limbers before planking the bottom of the boat.

Also need to encapsulate the sole supports before planking the bottom.

Test-run of the transition joint. Ill probably move this forward an inch or so.

Test-run of the transition joint. Ill probably move this forward an inch or so.

Here is the cut I made along the forward curve of the chine, using an oscillating "multi-tool" saw.

So far, Ive been very happy with the Porter Cable multi-tool I bought. It is very easy to use.

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Recent sinking has me seriously reconsidering flotation foam

Glen-L Crackerbox design

Not long ago, a builder in Ireland completed his construction of a beautiful Glen-L Crackerbox. The Crackerbox design is a 15 rear-cockpit, inboard speedster that is reminiscent of the "Gentlemans Racer" boats of the 1930s.

Last spring, this beautifully-constructed boat, named "Olds Cool," sank in Lough Ree. 

These are among the last photos of Olds Cool before she sank.

While out on the water, a hail storm quickly brewed up, rapidly churning large waves from what had been a calm lake. Although carefully trying to navigate the rough water and return to the boat dock, a hard descent off of one large wave sent Olds Cool diving directly into another. Water came over the deck, swamping the engine. With no forward power, and unable to steer, Olds Cool took two more waves broadside. She filled with water and sank within 30 seconds... too fast to even make an S.O.S. call.

Fortunately, the boats owner survived the incident unharmed. The incident is a chilling reminder of just how fast something can go wrong on the water. So much time and effort goes into building these boats, and its a tragedy when something like this happens. But it can happen, in the blink of an eye. I hope that his efforts of locating and raising the boat will soon be successful.

I learned about this incident only recently... not long after Id heard a similar story of another home-built boat that sunk in North Carolina in 2003. A man had built a replica of a 1934 Gar Wood Speedster. On the boats first voyage at the 2003 Lake Norman Antique Boat Show, the boats owner was racing another boat. He lost control, and the boat barrel-rolled and sank to the bottom of Lake Norman. After 11 years, the boat was located and raised in 2014.

I dont pretend to compare my little Utility boat with either of these fine craft. However, Perseverance now represents to me the better part of four years work and dreaming. And, if either of these fine boats can sink in the blink of an eye... so can mine.

So, Im now seriously reconsidering flotation foam. The question is: "Where to put it?"

There arent a whole lot of options. Its a small boat, but there is a good amount of unused space up forward, beneath the deck. I have considered adding a bulkhead at the crossbeam of the deck framing, then filling the area forward of the bulkhead with flotation foam. Would that provide an adequate amount of buoyancy to keep the boat from sinking? Who knows. One potential problem is that, in the event the boat fills with water, flotation foam at only the bow would at best keep the boat afloat vertically. In such an event, it might be better than nothing, as long as the boat could be retrieved before sinking.

Other options might be to add some foam under the seats. That might mess up the simple, classic aesthetic of the boat.... but then again, who cares about aesthetics when the boat is filling with water?

One option might be to fashion a bulkhead at the point of the forward-most deck beam. It should be relatively easy to fill the space with flotation foam before the deck is constructed.

If this forward-most area was filled with foam, it would be out of the way enough to not interfere with adequate storage are for life jackets, etc. But, would it provide enough buoyancy to keep the boat from sinking?

Under the rear seat? Perhaps. The trick would be blending it with the aesthetic of the boat, and not restricting water flow in the bilge.

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slowly bringing into shape

The shape is finally starting to come along.  The temporary center frame is in place (perhaps temporarily), and I have loosely wired in the stern frame.  The forward frame is under construction as well as the transom. I am hoping that this weekend I can get it all squared up and lock it all in place.

After a couple of hours, I was finally able to get these two forms to horn in accurately at each corner.  The problem was that the bottom panel was 1/4" too far aft.  I used a block of wood and a mallet to persuade it forwards, then reattached the forms til even.  Today, I will finish the forward frame and get the whole thing level prior to installing the transom.  Hope to be able to begin locking the boat together this week.

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Seat risers

This design is done up butterfly style. Where the two halves of the boat are stacked, stitched together with copper wire, then unfolded to make a three dimensional shape.

The seat stringers should have been tapered prior to glassing the panels together.  But, I was in a hurry.  the result was some cracking on the forward upper panel.  I will need to reinforce with glass when done.  the whole assembly is in the garage waiting to go three dimensional.  

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Trailer and a Paint Job

I found a 16 tilting boat trailer on Craigslist for a reasonable price, so I bought it. Ill need to re-carpet the bunks, but now I have something to put the boat on when its time to flip the hull.

Trailer: Check.

Last night, I painted 2 coats of System Three WR-LPU Whidbey White on the hull. I used the basic "Roll and Tip" method, which seemed quite easy after watching a couple of online videos. 

Since the paint was going on top of System Threes Silvertip epoxy, the tech support folks at System Three said there was no need for a primer coat first. Id have to say that the technical support people at both Flexdel (makers of the Aquagard marine paints) and at System Three have been both responsive and helpful.

2 coats of Whidbey White

The WR-LPU is a two-part paint. I mixed a 16 oz batch for starters, and that proved just enough to paint two coats on both sides of the hull, (excluding the transom). I havent decided yet whether to add a third coat.

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mast step

on to some other elements of this boat.  The mast step looked to be a bit of a challenge.  Step one was to get the waterline level.

The designer stipulates that to set the craft level, put the bow 10" higher than the transom.  Easier said than done.  As soon as i lifted the boat up in the stern to form the correct distance, the port corner of the transom was 1" lower than the starboard.  Therefore, i used the line dead center between these two points on the transom.

After this was set, I cut a piece of plywood to be the triangular top per the plans.  9 1/8 X 8 xxx.  Low and behold this created a distance of over 24" between the deck level and the mast step.  This would make the mast tube a little short for trimming correctly, and put the rig 3" lower.  Not tolerable.  Additionally, there is to be a 3 degree tilt to the step to get the mast angle correct.  I spent hours working on this problem.  My daughter is a math wizard and confirmed that this equates to a little less than 1" in 20".

I then cut a larger triangle that would sit so the mast tube would be about 21" from the deck. Putting the rig up higher, and providing enough tube to work with.  Then, a trip to the hardware store to get things plumb and angled correctly.  I purchased a cheap bubble level, and a dial protractor.

It took 5 minutes to get the step marked for installation.  total cost $11.  Highly recommended.  

Then, I discovered I had an app on my phone that would do it as well!  Doh!

Will build the support structure for under the step this weekend.  

Due to the high degree of variability with the forward section of each hull during the butterfly, stitch and glue process, I think that each mast step needs to be individually scribed and installed.  

Will double check the deck to step dimensions again tomorrow.  Looks like a finished tube will be 24".  I would like to leave it about an inch or two proud of the deck, then cut the aft half off to provide a little purchase for stepping the mast.  (although, a nice little mahogany box would do the same to receive the base of the mast.  would look cool, and could be trimmed with stainless!  Now were cookin

Hope to flip it this weekend and shape and tape the seams prior to finishing the interior.  

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